Boca da Valeria (MAR 09)

Pam & I having been here three years ago, knew what to expect.  (Click here to read 2014 blog post.) 

Now, like then, the image projected by the cruise line and at least a segment of the population of Boca de Valeria is that of a small, rural, community with a subsistence-level economy – simple people living a simple way of life.  As you approach the makeshift dock, this image is (mostly) sustained.  There is a one-room church, a one-room school and some basic homes.  Power lines and the occasional satellite dish are a bit of a contradiction, but can be dismissed without much effort.

However, you need some nearly opaque rose-colored glasses not to quickly recognize that every local and not-so-local awaiting you on shore is focused on getting as much money from you as possible.  “Have your picture taken with my sloth.”, “Come into my home.”, “Buy my handiwork.”, “Ride in my boat.”, “Help us build a new church.” – you get the idea. 

There is even an amphibious contingent that comes alongside the tenders while they are loading at the ship.

The good news is that this is a no-harm, no-foul situation.  The passengers going ashore want to be transported into a pre-conceived notion of rural life on the Amazon.  The locals are happy to fulfill this wish if you make it worth their while.  It is a win-win for other than a few locals who for whatever reason are marginalized in their attempt to tap into the supply of good will and cash emanating from the invaders.

We stepped ashore with four friends. After dropping off some crayons, pencils, etc. at the school for the teacher to distribute as she felt best, we found a boat to take us on a tour of the local waterways.  We did this by simply glancing at a woman holding a sign in English offering a 30-minute boat ride for $5.00 per person.  (We suspected the language and currency of her sign changed with the origin of the cruise ship.)  She immediately started urging us to get aboard her husband’s(?) boat, in broken English assuring us that the boat had a cover to protect us from the sun. 

We did come across a significantly larger church that the one in the village…

…and behind a pole I spotted a phone booth, but otherwise all was as it should be except for those damn tourists with their cameras.

Back at the village we wandered from one end of the village to the other, avoiding eye contact with the locals, then headed back to the ship.

Some sort of root vegetable being softened by soaking?

As VEENDAM departed Boca de Valeria, I turned my long lens back on the village.  It was as though a director had shouted, “That’s a wrap for today!”  There was not a single person, animal or boat in sight.

As VEENDAM continued west, we watch a potentially intense rainstorm pass off to our north. Seeing these weather cells is common.  So far we have not intersected one.  There would not be any concern if we did, just a lot of rain coming down fast, perhaps accompanied by some lightning and thunder.  On the plus side, the ship’s topsides would get a good freshwater wash-down.

Tomorrow we arrive at Manaus on the Rio Negro River.