While the
extravaganzas are the Sambadrome parades by the twelve Grupo Especial samba schools, Carnaval parades and block parties
take place throughout Brazil. In Rio
alone, there are 84 major parades and over 600 block parties.
Although
referred to as schools, the unit identity of each parade is a neighborhood;
more specifically a very poor neighborhood called a ‘favela’. Here I am going to stop as I am already on a
slippery slope about the history and structure of the samba schools.
Having gotten
off one slippery slope, I will avoid getting on another regarding the mandatory
components for each parade other than to note that a school must transit the
Sambadrome from one end to the other in 84 minutes. During that time the single theme song of
that school is played at “I must have forgotten to
put in my earplugs? No, they are in my ears.” decibel levels, over and over
and over and over again.
Click here to see a video and listen to a short audio clip of the music.
Last night
six schools paraded through the Sambadrome.
Tonight, it was the other six.
Our buses
left the ship at 7:45 PM to allow plenty of time to get to the Sambadrome
before the 10:00 PM start of the first parade.
Three years ago, it had taken us over two hours to get there; this year
it took forty minutes. We were in our
seats with more than plenty of time to spare.
The ‘seats’
were actually just long rows of concrete steps about double the height and
width of normal steps. We were each
given a cushion that, with virtually no meaningful padding, was basically a
place-keeper. Since we were on our feet
from the beginning-to-end of each parade, sitting comfortable was not a major
concern. Once at our seats, getting back
out to an aisle was challenging.
Each parade
started with a fireworks display heralding the samba school’s entrance. (In the picture above, the parade moved from
right-to-left.) It took some time for
the lead element of the parade to get near our seats. This was fortunate as it allowed time for the
slow-moving cloud of fireworks smoke that enveloped us to dissipate.
Once the parades start, it is all about the sights and sounds. The following pictures capture some of the sights. In your mind's ear, hear 90,000 people and eardrum-splitting music as 2,000+ participants in each parade pass by. Welcome to a Samdadrome parade!
Neither the floats or the costumes are ever re-used.
The long lens did reveal some surprises in participants previously presumed to be of a certain age and body image.
We left somewhere after 2 AM, having seen three parades, all of which were amazing. There were still three more to go.
It is an spectacular event.
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